Tom James Co. taking over operations at Hickey Freeman plant

Tom James Co., the world’s largest manufacturer of custom clothing, is acquiring Rochester Tailored Clothing and will take over operations at the former Hickey Freeman plant on North Clinton Avenue.

Hickey Freeman had been a hallmark of clothing and manufacturing in Rochester since 1899. But the brand’s owner, Authentic Brands Group of New York City, pulled out of the Flower City when the manufacturing contract with Luxury Men’s Apparel Group expired at the end of May.

That meant that for the first time in 124 years, apparel from the iconic Hickey Freeman brand was not being made in Rochester, and up to 200 union jobs were at stake.

Tom James Co., however, is wrapping up the deal to purchase operations from plant owner Rochester Tailored Clothing and has pledged to maintain the full workforce at the Clinton Avenue factory.

U.S. Senate Majority Leader Charles Schumer, D-N.Y., has for years been a strong proponent of Hickey Freeman, fighting for protections that enabled the clothier to stay in business. He helped negotiate the deal with Tom James through conversations with CEO Todd Browne.

“This 112-year-old factory is a Rochester institution, woven into the very fabric of the community,” Sen. Charles Schumer said in a news release. “The hundreds of skilled Rochester union workers are the beating heart of this operation, and that is why I’ve fought time and again to keep it in business whenever it faced challenges.”

The latest challenge arose this spring after Peerless Clothiers acquired the Hickey Freeman North American brand from Authentic and shifted production to Mexico.

While tailoring operations continued with other brands for Canadian-based Rochester Tailored Clothing, future stability was very much in jeopardy with the loss of Hickey Freeman.

The arrival of Tom James Co. ensures manufacturing will continue in Rochester. The company also intends to maintain the newly opened factory store on Broad Street in the city of Rochester.

“Tom James is very excited to welcome the legacy of fine tailoring from Rochester Tailored Clothing into the Tom James family,” Browne said in a news release. “Tom James remains firmly committed to preserving, and enhancing, the art of garment-making in the United States. We know of no workforce more qualified to further this mission than the men and women of Rochester Tailored Clothing.”

Founded in 1966 by Spencer Hayes, the Tom James Co. is headquartered in Franklin, Tenn., and is employee-owned. The company’s current 3,000 workers across nine U.S. factories are represented by Workers United, the same union that represents employees at the Clinton Avenue facility.

In announcing the arrival of Tom James Co. this morning, Schumer said he is doubling down on efforts to secure an extension of the Wool Trust Fund, which is set to expire this year. The Wool Trust Fund, part of the Farm Bill, compensates the domestic suit industry for the competitive disadvantage that results from an unfair “tariff inversion.” The duty on an imported finished suit is less than the duty on the materials used to make the suit in the U.S.

“When I visited this Rochester facility a few years ago and walked the floor alongside the factory’s hardworking employees, many of whom have worked there for decades, I committed to making sure their future was secure for years to come,” Schumer said.

“Tom James Co., fueled by its own Workers United union workforce, has become an industry leader and is tailor-made to sew success now for Rochester’s future. Today, I’m proud to say that a promise made is a promise kept.”

Considering the significance of the Hickey Freeman legacy in Rochester, as well as the impact on the employment sector, the continuation of operations is important to the area.

“Greater Rochester Chamber of Commerce has been a staunch advocate for the retention of the Rochester factory, recognizing its historical significance and the invaluable contributions of its skilled workforce,” Chamber president and CEO Bob Duffy said in prepared statement. “We commend Senator Schumer for his personal appeal to Tom James CEO Todd Browne, which played a pivotal role in securing this acquisition.

“We stand ready to support Tom James Company, the Rochester Tailored Clothing factory, and all the workers involved as they embark on this new chapter. Together, we will continue to build a thriving business environment that uplifts our community and celebrates our rich manufacturing heritage.”

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