BOOM quietly stirs up
buzz in restaurant scene

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No signs advertise the restaurant, and its front window is covered by tall evergreen bushes. Customers who want to dine there often drive up and down Monroe Avenue in Brighton in search of the place.
Yet despite its intentional obscurity, BOOM is emerging as one of the trendiest, most talked-about restaurants in town.
Located on Monroe Avenue near Highland Avenue, BOOM sits in a strip mall, sharing space with an odd assortment of businesses, including a kosher meat market, a hearing-aid retailer and a florist.
The location is not the only surprise for many BOOM diners; the decor and music behind the demure restaurant facade is even more of a shocker.
Chartreuse green and bright neon yellow are the background for this retro-40s style restaurant, highlighted by crystal chandeliers, bright red vinyl seats and velvet curtains.
On a recent visit, diners could be overheard singing along with ’70s favorites like Andy Gibb and ABBA.
“I’m the kind of guy who’s always in a good mood,” owner Paul Van Gelder said. “I really wanted a fun place. I wanted a place where people can have a great time.
“I mean, how serious can you be with the ‘Laverne and Shirley’ theme playing in the background?”
The 32-year-old owner/chef previously worked as the executive chef at the Water Street Grill and had brief stints at Harry’s and Rooney’s.
Van Gelder said he targeted Brighton and nearby Pittsford because of the lack of upscale restaurants in the area.
“Not everyone wants to get dressed up to go downtown for dinner,” he observed.
Van Gelder describes the menu as “fusion cuisine,” borrowing the best cooking styles from different regions. For example, the grilled marinated filet mignon of tuna is a concoction of Japanese cuisine with Asian slaw on the side, while the grilled porterhouse has a southwestern influence, with roasted tomatillo and chipotle pepper sauce.
Dinner reservations are necessary nearly every night of the week. On weekends, tables book up weeks in advance.
The restaurant’s booming business comes despite almost no marketing effort.
Van Gelder said BOOM’s low profile is modeled after some of the great restaurants in larger cities–hideaway places that are discovered through the grapevine.
“Word of mouth is the best form of advertising,” he said. “Most successful restaurants rely on word of mouth.”
The investment in BOOM has paid off for Van Gelder. His parents took a second mortgage on their home to help finance its opening.
The business is on track with its revenue projections, Van Gelder said.
He is expanding into catering and is considering other ventures, such as an upscale sandwich shop.
“There’s room to expand,” Van Gelder said. “It’ll only get better.”

8/14/98